Friends of Anton goes live: the front line meets Christie’s NYC   Leave a comment

When: May, TBD
Where: Christie’s Auction House, NYC
When James Foley, Manu Brabo and I were released last May, we brought with us the tragic news that Anton Hammerl was not alive and well as his family had been told by the Libyan regime, but in fact had been gunned down by Qaddafi’s soldiers on 5 april, the day the rest of us were captured.  Fellow journalists in the community immediately offered to donate prints of their works for a sale to benefit the educational future of Anton’s three children: Aurora, 11; Neo, 8; and Hiro, now one year old.  The result was the Friends of Anton website, which has been live since the fall, and will be updated with details of the live event once determined.
With New-York-based photojournalist David Brabyn, we are now organizing a major live auction of press photography prints to benefit Anton’s three young children. Our goal is to raise enough funds to allow them to receive the best education possible. The auction is planned for May in New York City, and will be held at Christie’s auction house.
The world’s best photojournalists have responded enthusiastically to our appeal for prints. They include David Burnett, Kenneth Jarecke, Yuri Kozyrev, Ed Kashi, Greg Marinovich, Susan Meiselas, João Silva, Jane Evelyn Atwood and Lynsey Addario.  The event will consist of a live auction as well as concurrent silent/online components.
This is perhaps the first benefit auction to foreground the work of contemporary photojournalists.  As such it is a new and exciting idea, and we are eager to pursue all possible paths while publicizing the event.  We feel that the images are aesthetically stunning as well as having historical news value, and we hope that this auction will appeal to a number of different kinds of potential buyers, whether they are fine art collectors or simply people who would like to make a humanitarian contribution and purchase a wonderful image at the same time.

Posted February 17, 2012 by claremorgana in Uncategorized

Salloum to Benghazi   2 comments

Friday, 25 feb 2011

Salloum, Egypt – Masaad, Libya – Tobruk – At-Bayda – Benghazi

In the morning at the Egyptian side of the border, things are remarkably calm after the chaos of last night (thousands of vehicles, hundreds of Egyptian army officials).  We show our passports and press cards a few times and are waved through to passport control.  At least one hundred Thai and Filipino guest workers departing Libya for Egypt have colonized the departure hall.  Some have been here for 72 hours.  They have blankets and food, and sit passively amidst piles of garbage – milk containers, plastic bags, cigarette butts, and dirty papers – that have accumulated on the floor.  I buy a Libyan SIM card from one of them (and get some phone calls from unknown Thai people for the rest of the day).

There are just journalists and fleeing guest workers to be seen here.  The former are smoking cigarettes and waiting for passports to get stamped.  The latter are sitting passively on chairs and on the floor, waiting for a bus.

Finally we receive a stamp signaling we are no longer subject to the laws and protections of the Egyptian state, and we start the long walk over to the physical line in the sand.  Libya is windy, I decide, my teeth crunching sand that the wind has been strong enough to force through the scarf wrapped around my face.  We walk down about 500m of dusty, empty road to the formal exit from Egypt.   To our left is a high security fence, and on the other side Egyptians with cars piled high with mattresses, washing machines, boxes of clothes.

In Libya we show our passports to the men standing at the border – black leather jackets, AK-47s, and a tricolor Libyan flag flapping in the wind.  Right at the entrance are gathered a crew of freedom fighters, about eight men shaking their fists in anger and talking about Qaddafi.  “The Libyan people don’t like him!” one said.  Another said “no work, no eat, no money.”  “He brought in foreign soldiers to kill us.”  One wears a bullet-proof vest.  Another holds a picture of Qaddafi upside down and his friend points an empty rifle at it and pulls the trigger – click click. 

Masa’ad, the first town over the border, was also among the first claimed by the opposition last week.  Near the entrance of the town are the crumbled green remnants of large stone tablets, painted with text from Qaddafi’s “Green Book,” his one-man version of a constitution.  They were toppled by demonstrators last week.

The residents of Tobruk are holding a victory celebration after Friday prayers. Hundreds of men and boys fly the flag of Libya out of the cars and trucks they ride in, which are all dusted the same sandy yellow color by the fierce wind.  Much is similar to the uprising in Egypt – people greet press with a smile and flash V-for-peace signs.  There was never any violence here because from the beginning the army and the police sided with the opposition.  They are marching together today.

It is a new Libya in the east right now.  Since the army and police have defected in such mass to the opposition, it doesn’t make sense any more to talk about “protesters” or “anti-government demonstrations.”  To be sure, the people are demonstrating, but they are demonstrating their success in usurping elements of state power from the man whom they reject as its head.  With the resurrection of the old pre-Qaddafi flag they are declaring their separation from the rest of the country, de facto those shrinking sectors where Qaddafi continues to command some kind of loyalty.  As I’d already heard, much of the daily infrastructure has not broken down – the stores are still stocked with food, gas stations are open.  Surprisingly the Libyan dinar continues to be the currency used – I anticipated recourse to the dollar given the instability.

[to be continued...]

Posted February 26, 2011 by claremorgana in Uncategorized

Medical aid convoy to Libya – ride-along   1 comment

24 feb 2011

Cairo – Marsa Matrouh – Salloum

When the news broke last week of Qaddafi’s massacre of civilian protesters in Benghazi and surrounding areas, it served as a chilling reminder that the region’s most notorious eccentric is also a ruthless suppressor of dissent. Many in Egypt, energized by the success of their peaceful ouster of former Pres. Mubarak, determined to do something to help the Libyan people.  Three men in particular used all the resources at their disposal to start organizing aid convoys to deliver supplies to Libya.  They have sent several separate convoys so far, and today they combined their efforts in what will be the largest convoy to date: two thirty-ton trucks and as many as 100 pickups and minivans, carrying medical supplies and food, along with perhaps 50 of pharmacists and doctors, as well as one ambulance.  From two cousins in Cairo who used Facebook and Twitter to gather aid, to a sheikh in Marsa Matrouh who channeled the resources of his family’s social network, this convoy brings the spontaneous organization and surprising scale of the Egyptian uprising to the country it neighbors.  I joined the convoy at midnight as they prepared to leave Cairo.

12:30pm Raba’a Mosque, Nasr City, Cairo
In the city’s largest mosque, columns of men are lined up next to the highway passing aid packages hand-to-hand.  They have gathered suppllies at locations around the city to be delivered to this central location, which is the departure point for the border.  Periodically they break into cheers of “Egypt! Egypt! Egypt!” alternating with “Libya! Libya! Libya!”  One man waves the pre-Qaddafi tricolor Libyan flag as he stands in the road with his friends.  Drivers stop to shout encouragement, and even police cars are greeted with jubilant shouts, while the policemen wave in return as they drive off.

“Look at this, this is amazing.  It is still totally unbelievable to me,” says Ehab Mesallum, the 47-year old neurosurgeon who, together with his cousin Maged Mesallum, touched off the spark last week.  Between constant phone calls and questions from the volunteers dancing around loading the truck, he explains methodically how the project came to snowball so quickly into something so large.

It all started with a Tweet, which is not an unfamiliar story in the recent uprisings in this region.  “I was sitting with my cousin talking, and we said ok, we have to do something for these people.  So I posted a Tweet with my cousin’s number, asking if anyone could donate anything to the Libyan people. This was midnight Saturday night.  Within ten minutes the first phone call came, and the phone did not stop ringing until 6 in the morning,” says Ehab.

“It got so difficult to organize by phone that we started a Facebook page (in Arabic only) “Egyptians support the Libyan revolution.”  And we asked people to bring supplies to this mosque after the noon prayers on Sunday.  At first there were ten or fifteen people there, but by the time prayers were over, there were so many people that we ended up staying until midnight.”

“The first trip, there was a lot of disorganization.  We had no idea about vehicles and how the situation on the border was.”  Mesallum says the first vehicle was a 5-ton truck donated by someone that he and his cousin came to know through their Facebook page.  5 or 6 doctors rode with the equipment, but Egyptian military and police stopped them at the entrance to Salloum, the Egyptian town at the Libyan border, explaining that it was too dangerous to let them enter Libya.

Since then the Mesallums have organized three other convoys, with the organization and volunteer efforts growing exponentially by the day.  “I try to buy medical supplies, and the companies give me everything for free.  They have donated food too.  Other people contribute money but if everyone keeps giving everything for free I have nothing to spend it on!”  Mesallum gestures towards a black briefcase between he’s secured between his feet.

Volunteering with the collection and loading efforts in Cairo is Alaadin Abdullah, a 23-year old computer engineering student who hails from Benghazi.  He has lived in Cairo for six years because “the universities in my country are no good anymore.  I want to go back to my country and rebuild it.  The Egyptian revolution was amazing, and it made the Libyans finally wake up.”

Around 2:30am, the call rings out: “ready to go!” Yallah bye.  Besides the truck there are two passenger cars.  I’m riding with three Egyptians energized by the successes of their uprising and eager to spread the feeling.  Eslam Maksoud, a 36-year old architect from Cairo, jumped at the chance to help the Libyans.  “I was never politically active in my life,” he says, until he learned of Khaled Said, the Alexandian beaten to death by police officers when they learned he had video evidence of police involvement in the drug trade.  “I want something better for my son.  He’s five years old, and I don’t want him to grow up in this kind of place.”  He spent time at Tahrir frequently during the 18-day uprising and rode in the first aid convoy the Mesallums organized.

Ahmad Hydham and Ahmad Abou el-Hassan are two 18-year-old school friends who study engineering.  Hydham wants to go to Libya “just to help our brothers.”  He was at Tahrir throughout the uprising.  He and his father are in the Muslim Brotherhood and have five standing cases lodged against them by the Ministry of the Interior, charges that he finds “ridiculous.”  He is certain they reflect only Mubarak’s policy of delegitimizing any perceived threat to his rule.  El-Hassan says “it’s not good to see fellow humans suffering and you don’t do anything about it.  You can’t just watch.”  “This is what’s great about this revolution,” says Maksoud, “the young people, they are so dedicated to it.”

We drive to the outskirts of Cairo to wait for a second 30-ton truck.  Despite the chilly night, spirits are high.  The volunteers stand around next to the deserted overpass, rubbing their hands to stay warm and cracking jokes about Qadafi.  “Which is the best thing that he said: either “any woman can vote, whether it’s a male or a female?”  or “if there was no electricity everybody would have to watch TV in the dark?” asks Hydham, to uproarious laughter from the gang of eight.

We drive off again until a gas and prayer break around 5:30.  After praying, the group stands around laughing even mre about Qadafi as the sky starts to turn blue in the east.

By 11am we reach Marsa Matrouh.  This small coastal town is sand-swept by winds from the desert.   The bright colors of traditional Bedouin women’s clothing decorate shops on the main road, their beads winking in the sun.  Nearly all the men sport robes and long beards here, and many wear keffiyahs wrapped around their heads.  We turn a corner and come upon the sight of about 45 pickups, mostly Toyotas, with signs taped on the windows, hoods and side doors: “sons of Matrouh, God save the people of Libya.”  Neatly lined up and loaded with aid, they are ready to roll.

After a brief consultation about proper clothing (I need to cover my hair), I speak to Sheikh Farag El-Abd.  He is a cleric and leader of a powerful family here and has organized the aid effort from his town. Sharp-eyed and bearded, in robes and keffiyeh, he’s working the cell phone and ringed by twenty or so assistants and listeners-in.  He got the idea to send aid at the same time as the Mesallums.  When I ask if he used Facebook and Twitter to spread the word, he shook his head emphatically.  “No, no.  I spread the word in the mosque and among my friends.”  Traditional Bedouin social structure is still present in the cities even after tribes moved off the lands to the south, so powerful individuals have strong connections to large family networks.

Sheikh Farag has sent two aid convoys already: the first had four trucks with medical aid, the second 22.  And today, Thursday, he says that after the prayers the trucks will number up to 75. At Salloum, the border crossing to Libya, the total number will reach around 100.  “Everybody wants to help,” he says.

During the noon prayers the imam leads a prayer for the Libyan people.  “All Arabs are brothers, God have mercy on the Libyans.  Qadafi does things against Islam now.”  He thanked the participants in the convoy and urged those who weren’t going today to take part tomorrow.  As we leave Marsa Matrouh, the spontaneous self-organization that have hallmarked the Egyptian movement from the beginning is fully in evidence – several volunteers dart through the lined up cars, writing down license plate numbers and waving them through.

The convoy tightens as we approach Salloum.  A line of soldiers spans the sandy ground between the lanes of the divided highway.  They don’t wave us through, but they don’t make any move to stop us either.  After passing the city gates, people lean out their car windows shouting “Libya! Libya! Allahu akbar!” and flashing peace signs.  To our right we glimpse the Mediterranean, gently blue under air thick with sand. There is a long line of trucks, buses and minibuses waiting inside the city line.  We speculate about what they’re doing – offering their services to deliver fleeing Egyptians home, is the consensus.  At a price.  “Well, we know one thing – their purpose is not humanitarian,” says Maksoud with a wry grin.

6pm
As we approach the border, the excitement degenerates into chaos.  Hundreds of cars and trucks are directed by just as many military border guards, each of whom gives a different verdict about who can go through and who can’t.   No one speaks if they can shout.  When a vehicle lingers too long in the coming or going lane, soldiers pound on it with their fists.  Members of the aid convoy are flagged through or simply drive off the road to rejoin the line further up.  Journalists stand around, cameras in hand, waiting for the soldiers to stop yelling at their guides so that they can (perhaps) get to the other side.  We make it through several such checkpoints, but at what appears to be the final one, are given a no-fly.  The best explanation we can get is that even though we are part of the aid convoy, we are not actually carrying any aid in our car.

Back at Salloum, I try again to cross, this time with a car full of doctors who are also part of the medical convoy.  We don’t get as far as I got the first time, and are advised to return tomorrow with a larger group.  By the way, the soldiers say, the border is closed tonight.

I’m not sure who makes these decisions, but I think it’s the same guys who arbitrarily allow some vehicles in and not others.  And I realize the army itself probably doesn’t have much of a clue how to proceed – they are in charge, after all.

Posted February 26, 2011 by claremorgana in Uncategorized

Notes on Libya   1 comment

wed 23 feb 2011

So, I’m looking to get into Libya.  The specifics have yet to be worked out.  Since things have quieted down in Cairo, I have been working out where to go next in my revolution-chasing project.  It’s a fantastic opportunity to be in a region that is experiencing such massive upheavals at this very moment, but there are issues with entering many of the countries to observe firsthand.  It is difficult and time-consuming to get visas for Yemen and Algeria, and Algeria’s is also expensive.  Yemen’s is $27 for a single-entry but is also a violent and heavily armed country, which was fragile and volatile even before the recent Days of Rage.  Plus they don’t just not like Westerners very much – they target them and take them out.  Not a good place to be as a freelancer with no institutional support (driver-fixer, decent amount of money, BODYGUARD…).  Bahrain, you can get a visa at the airport, but it is also a small country (scale: Iceland) and things look pretty quiet there since the army and police stepped down in refusing to use force against the protesters.  It is also not exactly a budget destination.  So I have been looking at Libya since the border opened last night (confirmed Al Jazeera English around 11pm 21 February, and CNN’s Ben Wedeman was apparently perched at the border waiting as he started tweeting from the other side within the hour – nice work!).

It drives me to distraction that something this momentous is happening right next door and it has not been possible to get there.  I’ve turned down an offer (which has since been retracted as posing too many risks) to get smuggled in by a Bedouin, a friend of a friend, across some point in the approximately 500km stretch of unpatrolled desert border between the southern regions of Libya and Egypt.  For obvious reasons, I did not consider this offer very seriously.  Been trying to arrange a ride with an aid truck or convoy for the past three days.  Before the border opened, when Qadafi was hitting Benghazi hard, I got turned down by one aid convoy, who said “no way,” that they didn’t want to take the responsibility of me riding with them – they didn’t know if they would make it back.  I appreciate their forthrightness and consideration.  I’ve talked to a lot of protesters and family members, and the implicit thread of a not uncommon composite narrative runs like this: “I’ve got no money, no job, no wife, no kids.  I’ve got five brothers and sisters.  If something happens to me, my mother will cry for a while, but she’ll get a lot of respect.  It’s ok.”  This is not how I think about the value of my life.

Though the violence continues in and around Tripoli, it has, nota bene, and as far as I can gather from the AJE and CNN live blogs, been quiet in the east for the past 24 hours or so, since the protesters declared control over the east and the military joined them.  The rash of defecting diplomats and pilots who refuse to carry out orders to strike civilians (some landing in Malta) is amazing to see.  All the same, the apparent calm in the east may be the precursor to a massive strike – I am sure that if Qadafi is left with five people loyal to him, he will order them to carpet-bomb eastern Libya to oblivion.  Maybe he knows how precarious his situation is – he said earlier today on Libyan state TV that he will not leave Libya, and will “die as a martyr” if necessary.  He is setting himself up to go out with some (perceived) dignity, no doubt inspired by the negative examples of Mubarak and Ben Ali fleeing.  But he will go down swinging.

Some thoughts: reporters and commentators need to stop talking about “genocide,” unless they’re quoting Saleh Ali Al Majbari and Jumaa Faris, former Libyan diplomats to the embassy in Washington, DC, who said Qaddafi “bears responsibility for genocide against the Libyan people in which he has used mercenaries.”  As we all know, genocide refers to the killing of an ethnically or racially distinct group of people.  What we’re seeing in Libya is “mass slaughter,” the intentional mass slaughter of civilians.

- I know the situation is difficult for journalists, but I would like to see more specificity in reports of “aircraft bombing confirmed”; “use of mercenaries confirmed.”  Where did it happen?  When?  If it is confirmed, it should be possible to give specifics.  A nice exception: see the AJE live blog for a really helpful map of the violence (heading “crowdsourced googlemap”).

- Where is Obama on this? He might be concerned about the US citizens in Libya, who apparently cannot be evacuated.  And he might just realize that Qadafi is a man who is not going to play.  He is famously, well, crazy (another thing Wikileaks told us that, in fact, we knew already).  And unlike the case of Egypt, the US has nothing to bargain with.  As for the Secretary of State Clinton, the UN, and others in the international community calling the violence in Libya “appalling,” what else can they honestly do about it?

As for me, it seems likely I, and possibly an Italian photographer friend, will be able to ride with a team carrying medical aid into Libya.  They plan to leave in the next couple of days.  Will keep everyone posted, as much as internet access allows.

Posted February 23, 2011 by claremorgana in libya

Lara Logan, sexual violence in Egypt, and the revolutionary moment   4 comments

 

18 feb 2011

It’s hard to know where to start with a discussion of brutal attack on Lara Logan, the CBS reporter who was beaten and sexually assaulted the night of Feb. 11 in Tahrir Square.  But a few things come to mind.  First, a great percentage of the reaction in the blogosphere has been predictably shameful – early comments along the lines of “she’s hot and blond and likes to go to hot and not-blond places,” and thus probably deserves it in some way, have laid off a little (along with one horrendously offensive man who should have been fired before he had the chance to quit).  But the corollary of these comments went in the direction of “all Muslims are disgusting animals, foul adulteress-floggers, who are trying to impose sharia throughout the Middle East, and while they’re at it, in every Main Street, USA.” Such comments are not limited to websites such as creepingsharia.com (headline: “CBS News’ Lara Logan Brutally Raped by Egyptian Democracy Seekers”) or Now the End Begins: End Time Bible Prophecy, but appear with varying degrees of virulence at well over the 50% mark in the comments section of any article on the subject.  And, yes, when these barbaric, misogynist adulteress-floggers are confronted with a blond lady, who apparently was attacked by a 200+ swarm while being called out as a “Jew” (if you buy what the NY Post is selling as coming from an anonymous “network source”), well, they sure know how to celebrate their twisted backwards version of “democracy….”

We know very little about the actual attack.  Personally, I find it chilling not to know exactly where or when it happened, because I spent much of that evening making my own way through the crowd in the square, doing interviews, meeting friends and soaking up the generally euphoric atmosphere.  But one thing I am sure of: the anti-government protesters did not do this.  Along with the commitment to nonviolent protest, one of the great principles of the Tahrir movement was the full participation of women in actions in the square.  Women worked in the temporary clinics, some even fought at the front lines, they slept in the square, they brought food and water in, they spoke with the press and sent out calls to action via social media and with megaphones.  More than that, the protesters worked aggressively to make the square a safe space for women, to fashion a new Egypt in harmony with their ideals.  There is no way that these protesters were swept away in some frenzy of blonde-lust at their moment of triumph.  And the protesters’ response to the attack on Logan has been overwhelming: via Twitter and interviews, they have condemned the attack.  Of course, part of being a revolutionary is the ability to imagine the world as the world is not – and Tahrir was an artificial (if organically created) microcosm of a new and different society.  Where reality reconverges with uprising remains to be seen, and it has already been observed that women are not among the top ranks of opposition figures.

There are two possibilities here.  The first is that Logan was targeted.  In an an interview with Charlie Rose done on 7 February, before Logan returned to Cairo, she talked about how she and her team had already been detained (in blindfolds) by the army, held for some sixteen hours, and accused of being Israeli spies (at minute 3:50).  It was a disturbing enough experience for them to return to the US. She told Rose she felt like “a failure” for not having been able to complete her job, and said “it’s in my blood to be in the streets talking to people” (minute 14:40).  So she went back.  In an interview with Esquire, she said “Part of me feels like it’s really insane, but the other part of me made a very considered, rational decision with my teammates.”  She also said that the Egyptian Embassy in Washington, DC had been made aware of their plans to return to Cairo in order to work as journalists.  The New York-based nonprofit Committee to Protect Journalists reports at least 141 acts of violence, intimidation and detention of journalists during the Egyptian revolution, generally understood to be the same brand of paid thugs who rode into Tahrir on horse- and camel-back to try to break the resolve of people in the square. I’ve gotten word of other attacks on journalists the night of Feb. 11.  And there is the aforementioned report from the NY Post that the mob identified Logan as Jewish while they were attacking her.  This is not inconceivable, especially given the earlier accusation that they were Israeli spies, but it is far from proven either.

However, the main point does not have to do with Muslims, protesters, or blonde foreigners. Egypt has always had a problem with sexual violence against women.  There have been numerous instances of violence against women in times of celebration: during the festival of Eid in 2006, dozens of men and boys attacked women in broad daylight in downtown Cairo, as they were waiting outside a cinema; many injuries were reported, but ultimately none of the offenses were prosecuted, as women are discouraged by authorities and their families from reporting attacks and bringing shame on themselves.  Harassment is also a daily phenomenon, with almost 90% of Egyptian women reporting physical or verbal assault.

On the night of Feb. 11, many people who had nothing to do with the protest movement came out for the celebrations.  Beyond the anti-government protesters who were celebrating their moment of triumph, there were many on the scene who just wanted to be out in a crowd with other people – and among those, there were definitely some who were not thrilled about Mubarak’s departure.  I know this because I spoke to some disgruntled-looking people, who said they weren’t happy and they didn’t want to talk about it.  The volunteer civilian checkpoints which had been in effect from Feb 1 were abandoned or loosely staffed that night – meaning anyone could come in, and could possibly bring weapons in with them.  Among the protesters, young men formed cordons around groups of women to keep them safe from “bad people” who might be out in the crowds.  In fact, they did this so vigorously that I had trouble getting out of one such “lady line” to meet a (male) friend.  I saw it happen that night, as well as on many other occasions, that the appearance of a camera, lights and a reporter would cause a crowd to swarm around, mainly just wanting to talk.  On nights when Mubarak had given one of his disappointing speeches, there was a lot of anger in the crowd, and people wanted the opportunity to speak their minds – such conversations often became heated, and sometimes degenerated into shouting matches.

I think it is most likely that Logan and her team were targeted because of their earlier problems, in which case it is a story of paid thugs trying a last ditch attempt to stifle the story, preserve the old regime, or simply express their frustration at being unable to do so.  Otherwise, it seems they were just caught unawares by the “bad people” that the victorious protesters kept warning me about – that is to say, the reckless elements that come out to play in any society, of any religion, in a volatile situation.  In neither case are those responsible part of the revolutionary movement.  And in either case, we know one thing that we knew already: Egyptian society has a problem with sexual harassment.  It shouldn’t take the experience of a “blonde” or “foreign” or “attractive” reporter to make clear what has been so obvious to Egyptian women for a long time.  This revolutionary moment has a chance now to push strongly forwards with all the work that is already being done on the ground here by people who are striving to make Egypt a safer and more comfortable place for women.  But as long as sexual harassment is so widely practiced and tolerated within Egyptian society, Egyptians themselves are complicit in allowing such hateful and ignorant portrayals of all Muslims to flourish on the Internet and in the minds of people who maintain a willful ignorance, and know only what they choose to know.  I appreciate that there is a certain insensitivity in demanding Egypt punish those responsible for an attack on a foreigner which happens to Egyptian women everyday, as if there is something exceptional to this particular suffering.  But if the assault on Logan is the thing that pushes men and women here keep talking more and more openly about the endemic problem of sexual violence against women in Egypt, and doing more to combat it, well, there is no time like the present.  Otherwise the brief and happy safe space that was occupied Tahrir will remain an exercise in imagining the world as the world is not.

 

Posted February 19, 2011 by claremorgana in cairo

KFC, Egyptian media, and notions of “truth” in a police state   1 comment

Among the many shops and restaurants that have reopened in the past few days is the infamous Kentucky Fried Chicken at Tahrir.  This was the physical site of a temporary hospital (the “KFC clinic“) which remained busy throughout the occupation of the square.  But it was also the imagined site of largesse distributed to miscreants who insisted on holding Cairo hostage to the demands of the US, Israel, Iran, Hamas, Westerners in general, Western journalists in specific, the Muslim Brotherhood, Hezbollah, and/or also Islamofascists of all stripes…for 50 bucks and a bucket of the Colonel’s finest.

For those of you who missed the story the first time around: before the military takeover, Egyptian state media regularly misrepresented the situation in Tahrir. They ran old footage of the square which showed either only several thousand people, or even empty streets or ones filled with traffic.  Also you could catch laborious hours of Mubarak in negotiations with his new cabinet.  But the strangest misinformation they planted was that the demonstrators were being paid off with cash and a Kentucky meal.  That was the official story coming out of the state media building, which for the past weeks was and remains even now completely encircled by tanks and razor wire and has riflemen stationed in the second-floor windows.  But residents of the square, many of whom had been living there for weeks, had limited direct access to media, and would use their opportunities to consult Al-Jazeera rather than catch up on government mendacity.  So the street version of what was already misinformation became more and more exaggerated, the dollar amount starting at 50 and going up to 100 or 150.  When I was doing interviews, protesters would jokingly call out to me, “hey, where’s my Kentucky?”  “And my hundred and fifty dollars!” someone else would reply. 

Chicken goes both ways though.  Another set of rumors I heard from numerous people was that the Mubarak supporters had been paid 150 EGP (or dollars) and given half a chicken, possibly also an apartment.  Possibly also 1000 EGP to stay the night, or 5000 EGP if they killed a protester.  “But don’t quote me on that last one,” said the person who repeated to me the word of bounty killing.  Everyone is certain they were paid, though confirmation and specific figures are hard to come by.

Western media also have a checkered reputation, and why shouldn’t they. Everyone I talk to in the street asks who I work for (they seem to distrust CNN in particular) and insists that I tell the truth, no more, no less.  I don’t think Glenn Beck, or for that matter Anderson Cooper, are the problem though.  Many distrust the US because of the US government’s support of Israel, which has long been the decisive factor of US policy in the region.  It is this policy, and Mubarak’s willingness to make Egypt a “friendly Arab regime” in partnership with the US and Israel, which is largely responsible for having kept him in power so long.  Some think I am Israeli, and those are the ones who don’t care that I’m from the US.  “America- Israel, same same! brothers!” said one old lady to me one morning.  The guys I was talking to said “no, no, don’t listen to her, she doesn’t understand the difference between an individual and a government.”  And the assumption, in the older generations or the less educated and internet-savvy population at least, is that Western media are as willing to distort the facts to serve their ideological purposes as the Mubarak regime was.

Living in a police state might make it seem that there is actually no such thing as “facts” or “the truth.”  In Syria, Mubarak’s Egypt, Iraq under Saddam, the old German Democratic Republic, even when someone speaks to you with apparent frankness, there is always the suspicion that they are trying to get information from you, or trying to disseminate misinformation on purpose – because so often that is the case.  People feign sympathy for your cause in order to get you to say something nasty about the president/ king/ dictator, or they inform on their neighbors to prevent secret police scrutiny of their own actions, or just for the baksheesh.  So a habit of thought can develop where there is only information-with-a-purpose, and never an honest statement, subject to some kind of empirical test.

I adopted these habits of thought myself to an extent: one day last week a few men came up to me on the square, asked if I was a journalist, I said yes.  They explained that they were private citizens trying to get Western journalists to go on the record saying that they were not paying protesters to stay and demonstrate (that is, to refute the misinformation given by the state television station), but that everyone they had approached had suspected them of being police and so hadn’t given a photo or contact info.  “Why are they so worried?  we are just normal people, we want to tell the truth, but everyone is suspicious of us,” one of them said to me.  “Well, of course they’re suspicious,” I said.  “They’re getting beaten up and detained and their equipment broken, and you have our information but we don’t have yours.”  They showed me their identification cards (Egyptian cards list profession, which is why civilians were checking them at the borders of occupied Tahrir).  My Arabic isn’t great, but I know how to spell shurta “police.”  The one who said he was a pharmacist was indeed a pharmacist.  In the end I decided not to be the exception to the rule of no journalists giving their information to these guys, but who knows?  Maybe they were just private citizens trying to tell their countrymen the truth.  We may never know.

Within the academy we challenge the apparent simplicity of facts or objectivity all the time; no matter how truthful any statement is, it is always marshaled by someone, for something, in order to serve a particular purpose.  But in this case I’m not talking about monolithic ideas about the “Arab world” or how Western scientific method negates and obstructs voices which don’t fall into pre-existing categories….I’m talking about, for example, “I saw that guy throw a rock at the other guy’s head,”  I’m talking about “I saw an anti-government protester with a bullet hole in his hand from the alleged Mubarak supporters who were in fact police” (civilians in Egypt don’t have firearms).  Today, I am talking about the many Egyptian workers who have been protesting for better wages and better working conditions for the past two days.  There is a difference between these kinds of truth. Participatory politics require citizens to make choices based on information which can be held up to some kind of standard, and found to be true or false.  And for that to happen, truth has to be an actual possibility, not an empty or arbitrary category.

There are encouraging signs of reform within Egyptian state media, which continues to be the main source of information for many here.  After one prominent anchorwoman quit NileSat last week because she couldn’t disseminate “propaganda” anymore, others have followed suit, staging their own protests for better wages and demanding the resignation of some editors.  No time like the present – they are barely within the margin of error for being on the wrong side of history (arguably they are already well beyond it).  They have joined the wave of post-Mubarak protests by professional and vocational groups – bank workers, police, employees in tourism and transport, textile workers, etc. – that continue today.

I am heartened by the persistence and spread of the protests, less so by the army calling for an end to the strikes.  Of course, the army is right – strikes now are not going to help the already disastrous state of the Egyptian economy after 3 weeks of turmoil.  But it doesn’t look as if the pent-up rage of the people can be suppressed by force again.  If the people want to talk now, let them talk.  The Tahrir movement, while talking about economy frequently, focused more on dignity and personal freedom.  Now that people are stepping up whose main complaint is wages, especially the income disparity between common workers and their bosses, we see who comes over the barricades after the vanguard.  A serious dialogue with an information flow going in both directions – the process of establishing the possibility of “facts,” perhaps – is no doubt the first step towards realizing the ideal that government should reflect the will of the people.

If the new regime satisfies even some of the people’s demands, perhaps the bucket of KFC will start representing less than an average day’s (or week’s) wage for many Egyptians.  And it won’t be able to serve as a symbol of something that a citizen would believe others would actually endanger themselves to get a taste of.

Posted February 15, 2011 by claremorgana in cairo

The sober morning-after   2 comments

13 feb 2011

The army is throwing bread to the masses today, and in return they get their own circus.

They cleared the tents from Tahrir this morning from about 8-11am, without too much resistance for the most part.  By noon, nearly every trace of tent city was gone, and cleanup was carried out by a combination of demonstrator-volunteers and the actual uniformed Cairene trash collectors – visible here for the first time in 18 days.  Cars stop and go around the traffic circle in Tahrir, blaring their horns in a continuous stream.  During the day, there was a celebratory crew of about one or two thousand protesters, ringed by a cordon of red-hatted military police.  By 8pm the crowd has swelled again – maybe 5 or 10 thousand, though numbers aren’t my strong suit – truly a lot in any case – and cars pass more slowly.  There’s been a steady stream of firecrackers all evening until the curfew starts at midnight, when the army tells people to leave and they actually just leave and go home. 

Many of the protesters sleeping in the square had already departed upon the military takeover, because their main goal was that Mubarak leave.  But the others wanted the system itself to change, not just see the head lopped off.  Yesterday saw a number of confrontations between those two groups.  The ones intent on staying said they wanted Parliament and the Shura Council dissolved, as well as justice for the martyrs of the revolution.  So guess what, the army gave it to them (at least the parts that were easy to do), and also suspended the constitution.  In return they get crowds cheering all day and into the night “the army! the army!  the people and the army together!”  Something about this situation makes me nervous.  Probably it is the fact that, technically speaking, this is a military coup: the army is now the sole authority and, with the police still off the streets, the sole peace-keeper.  They plan to hold power for 6 months, or until it is possible to hold free and fair elections, and they have not said anything about integrating an interim civil authority.  This is a military takeover by one of the largest standing armies in the world, and they are not trained to govern, even provisionally.

In a surprising turn of events, policemen, viewed by many as part and parcel of the old regime, began their own protests today.  This afternoon, about a thousand police guards chanted in front of the Ministry of the Interior while tanks protected the building.  Police guards are low-ranking members of the police force who, in contrast to the officers, did not attend the police academy.  While police officers did protest as well in Dokki and other places in Cairo, the crew at the Ministry of the Interior was composed solely of guards and many of their demands had to do with their inferior status within police ranks.  They want higher salaries, health care, pensions, and a representative to the High Council of Police (now composed only of officers), among other things.  A soldier in one of the tanks stood and announced that salaries would be raised.  Though he gave no details, the statement was met with a great cheer.  This promise doesn’t quell the anger of the crowd though: many of these guards make only 500EGP (100 USD) a month and have to work a second job just to have enough food to eat.  Also, they feel they have been set up as scapegoats for the deaths on Jan 28: they claim officers gave them orders to shoot and then stepped off the scene.  Those who refused the orders to shoot were fired.

These policemen are riding a wave of protest energy from Tahrir and now feel justified in stating their grievances.  They’ve adapted some of the slogans from the Tahrir movement: “the people and the army together” becomes “the people, the army and the police together.”  Signs are being scrawled with ballpoint pens and markers by the moment.  I started talking to people at the edges of the crowd and soon a man came up to me speaking so fast and with such heat it took me a minute to get my bearings.  “These people are not officers! They’re guards! with small salary! no health care! they have to work two jobs just to survive!  They are humiliated by the last weeks, they have no safety!  People attack them in the streets!  I’m speaking to you for them because they can’t speak English, they need someone to speak for them!”  Sure enough, they all start shouting at once.  One man with tear stains on his cheek explains that his heart was with the people in the violent police crackdown on the 28th of January, but couldn’t disobey because he would have lost his job.  Before I can ask what orders exactly he wanted to disobey, someone else jumps in with a draft of their demands.  Others point and shake their heads in disagreement, and continue the heated argument until Zidane, their self-appointed spokesman, takes out a blank sheet of paper and starts taking dictation furiously from the dozen men standing around.  Maybe it is just this simple – people see how something is possible, for example, presenting a list of grievances and getting some satisfaction, and they start doing it.

So perhaps I am just being cynical with my distrust of the army.  Walking from the Ministry back to Tahrir, I saw soldiers riding in a plain blue Jeep, one of them sitting on the roof making an announcement with a bullhorn: they just wanted to thank the demonstrators for doing such a great job cleaning up.  This too meets with loud cheers and handshakes from the young people.  It continues to be peace and love all around between the army and the people.  Something has certainly changed in Egypt in the last days: the peaceful insistence of the protesters has set an example for how people can construct their demands for the future government, and they have sent the message that they won’t tolerate dictatorship and corruption in the future.  In itself this is a revolution in the culture and in the political discourse.  But in the meantime, the army is the only formal government in the country, and it is also the institution here which demonstrates the most continuity over the last sixty years.  So I am still not sure exactly what we should call this change: but it is not a political revolution yet.

 

Posted February 14, 2011 by claremorgana in cairo

11 February 2011: Happy Birthday, Egypt   Leave a comment

12:30pm
Tense as hell.  We don’t know what will happen.  With the rumors of a march on the Palace last night, everyone wonders: will it really happen this time?
Afternoon prayers underway, thousands standing at the ready at the Presidential Palace…in the hotel we consider the best vantage points – go up to the ninth-floor balcony of a nearby building for the bird’s-eye view?  Or take your chances in the street? (I lost my bag last night in the most crushing pile of bodies I’ve ever experienced – passport, wallet, 2 weeks of notes in my notepad…everything except camera and cellphone.  MIRACULOUSLY it reappeared in the Lost & Found one hour later: thank you, Egypt!!!)
We have to wait for prayers to be over to get out of the hotel, as men are kneeling right outside the chained door.  A final tea in the downstairs cafe, and we head out into Tahrir.  In contrast to last night, I don’t feel any anger in the crowd at all.  In fact, with the number of flags waving and patriotic songs playing, it starts to look more like an Egyptian version of the Fourth of July than a revolution proper.  It is a dance party and people are just plain happy.  A guy who has scrambled up one of the lamppost shakes his hips and sings along.  Kids ride on their parents’ shoulders and smile at the cameras.  No one is marching on any palace today, I conclude, and the Egyptians who I ask say the same thing.

2:30pm
After a couple of hours of this I decide it’s time for lunch.  One of the Italian photographers knows a restaurant which has recently re-opened where you can DRINK A BEER.  Hamdulillah, the last beer I had was in Moscow in the airport about 12 days ago.  So we go to one of these very nice places where the food doesn’t measure up to the ambience – stained glass ceiling, waiters in jackets and ties, goldfish shimmering through the water in the fish tanks that line the walls.  Still, they have beer, and this fact alone endears them to me.  Over lunch we long for conclusions and consider why the Egyptians don’t march on the Palace or the Parliament, because the rumors have been so strong after each of Mubarak’s speeches, and the people so infuriated, that it seems as if someone must want to take a more direct action.  On the other hand, it would be a suicide mission, for one, and for another, this is a movement that has always prided itself on being peaceful.  And it has been.  The only violence the demonstraters have engaged in has been in self-defense, when the pro-Mubarak thugs tried to break into the square.  At any rate, it doesn’t seem there will be a resolution today.  After a shisha in the lively cafe – where there is talk of taking a nap, taking a walk, moving on to Suez – I go back to the hotel to start writing about how nothing has really happened today.

approx. 5:30pm
Just as I get the power cord for my computer and write a few sentences, people swarm around the TV in the salon and start gasping and waving their hands to the sky.  “Allahu akbar, allahu akbar!” a woman from Cairo cries with tears in her eyes – she moved here with her daughter two weeks ago to be close to the demonstrations.  At the same moment the crowd outside erupts with a single voice of absolute and unstoppable joy.  Those of us who’ve been drinking beer and wondering where the revolution is snap to attention, sprint back to our rooms to ditch computers, grab cameras and extra batteries.  I run down nine flights of steps into the mad, mad crowd – everyone hugs strangers, kisses cheeks, shakes hands.  Elderly men look to the sky with tears rolling down their cheeks, “thank you, thank you, thank you.”  “It is a gift from God, what happens today.  He is gone, he is finally gone.  Allahu akbar,” says a bearded man in a long robe.  He clasps my hand and thanks me for being with the Egyptians today.  Another man, this one missing some teeth, grabs my hands for a jubilant dance of victory and relief.  The electricity in the air makes my entire body tingle, and I too nearly cry at some points as I walk through the packed square and enjoy the jumbling mass of humanity celebrating their hard-won success, the fruit of patience and hope. 
Strings of boys with hands on each others shoulders dart through the crowds singing “horreya, horreya!” (Freedom, freedom!).  Music starts again and the people sing with their whole bodies, shouting and running and calling to their friends, to the soldiers, to the sky, to anyone who is listening.  “This is a great, great day for Egypt, this is history being made here today, we are so happy to be free.  It is the only thing we ever wanted, is to be free, and now we are.  Thank you God.”
People fall over themselves to say how they feel on this day, unimaginable even three weeks ago.  One man I interview, an army veteran, discharged in 1990 with an eye injury and 140EGP (less than $30) a month pension for himself, his wife and two children, tells me through a translator  “If I knew how to log in to the Internet, I would go on Facebook and kiss the feet of the people who made this happen.”  He starts to weep and turns away.
The Egyptian people, and I too, have never seen anything like this happen in our lives.  The adrenaline and sheer jubilant energy of the crowd sweep the square as firecrackers start to shoot off into the sky – another resounding cheer to hear a shot in the air that signals beautiful colors in the sky and not more suffering. 
I text with some friends in the square, but we conclude it is impossible to meet up now – the crowd is just too thick.  So I go towards the museum, where it thins out a bit, and take a tea and watch the celebrations.  Boys with drums come through in a little dance troupe.  I make it to the 6 October Bridge – one of the most intense fighting last week happened here – and see boys reassembling rocks from the street battles to make a sign EGYPT IS FREE. Everywhere I go, everyone I speak with, makes my heart swell with joy.  They have achieved their goal (their primary goal of forcing Mubarak to step down, at any rate), and have done it in a dignified, spontaneous manner, without taking orders from anybody.  Two young boys carrying an Egyptian flag between them jostle close to me and shout, in voices gone scratchy, “we have our freedom! we have our dignity!  this is what we want for our kids.  Write that, tell everyone in the world that Egypt is free.”
After a couple of hours when I can’t take it anymore – it is just too big, too marvelous – I push back through the square to Tahrir Street, where cars swing around, honking like hell in symphony with each other, flags waving out the windows, everyone I pass giving me a high-five.  I rejoin the Italians at the shisha cafe where it is only slightly less chaotic than in the street.  We end up at a house party for the revolution, dancing to Egyptian songs til 4am.  “It’s as if they won a football match,” one of them says.  “Exactly the same energy, same scene.”  This is exactly the point here: they won.  Mabrouk, Egypt.  Congratulations on your revolution.

Posted February 12, 2011 by claremorgana in Uncategorized

One more time   2 comments

So…for the third time, Mubarak has acknowledged that something is deeply wrong in Egypt, but has refused to step down.  He has transferred certain powers to Vice President Suleiman, but remains the head of state. The NYT and The Guardian published reports today that the army was in a position to take over, but they certainly have not as yet.  Apparently Mubarak taped the speech beforehand: the editing shows a gap at some point, which I’m told is visible if you’re not watching it projected on a handmade screen at Tahrir which is basically giant sheets of plastic taped together and strung up between lampposts.  And the rumor is that he is currently in Paris, or Dubai, having turned away from what many view as a very reasonable option: pleading health concerns, stepping down and fleeing to Germany.  Twice in the speech he said he refuses to endure foreign interference, which I suppose means the Obama administration has been trying to do something.

Tomorrow is Friday, and of course the protests will swell after the afternoon prayers as they have in the past.  There is word that a march on the Presidential Palace is in the works…as an Egyptian-Canadian I spoke to this evening says, “that will be a bloodbath.  Within 100 meters, those guys just shoot.”  I was next to the medic station at the conclusion to the speech and watched thousands of shoes shaking furiously in the air.  “Son of a bitch!” someone called out.  Tahrir was more packed than I have ever seen it and the people are angry, pissed off now for the third time.

Again, I am concerned about the role of the army in this situation.  They have managed to become heroes to the people by refusing to fire on them (“the people and the army hand in hand”) and this puts them in a good position to take over and present it as a popular revolution.  They are playing their cards perfectly right now by doing absolutely nothing.

last minute addendum – as of 3:20am, there are about 2000 people outside the Presidential Palace, with the guard under orders to shoot at 100m.  I am on tenterhooks but too exhausted to wait up for something to happen.  See you tomorrow.

Posted February 11, 2011 by claremorgana in cairo

Max. Capacity ???   1 comment

Today Tahrir was so packed that it was nearly impossible to move.  The same measures remain in place for letting people in: tanks, burnt-out vehicles, razor wire and torn-apart fences block off the roads, and the access points are guarded by civilians who check passports and identification cards and frisk for weapons.  But there is no way to count or control the number of people who actually get in beyond the logistics of brute mass: people move slowly because there are so many of them.  But the civilian checkpoints never stop allowing people in.

As of today all journalists must possess an Egyptian press card, which gave me cause to go to Zamalek to get a photograph taken.  After half an hour I’d made it outside of the square.  My hotel is maybe 100m from the nearest exit, but with the crowds of people you can’t see if it is possible to exit through a given route or not until you’re standing right in front of a few 18-year old soldiers with rifles slung casually over their shoulders.  “No, no.”  They point you back into the crowd and it’s another fight to get out.  Finally got to the Nile and reveled in the fresh air, the open space, the boat runners jokingly offering a tour on the Nile.  In Zamalek, life looks pretty normal: deadly traffic, every shop open, bustling street life.  I sense again that there is a great divide between what is happening inside the square and how life looks from the outside.

Now in the evening it is yet more packed, and word comes up that there’s a wedding happening somewhere out there in the squirming mass of humanity below.  I check it out from a hotel window, surreptitiously because plainclothes security forces are hassling hotel owners for allowing journalists access to windows or roofs which overlook the square.  But so many mini-celebrations are going on that it’s impossible to tell which one of them might in fact be related to this revolutionary matrimony.  In any case, it is one hell of a party – just your friends, family, neighbors, and another 200,000 people.  Mabrouk!

Posted February 9, 2011 by claremorgana in Uncategorized

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